Fabric Mart :: All about leather and suede

All about leather and suede

The Tannery Tour

 
Hides are removed:
Once the hides are removed from the cow, they are cured by soaking them in a salt solution. This will stop them from deteriorating and rotting. They are then sent to the tannery
The Hides are then cleaned:
The hides are soaked and cleaned. This will remove the salt solution use earlier. A lime solution is added to remove hair, dung and excess flesh.
Hides are sorted:
The hides are sorted according to the amount of defects they may have such as scarring, tick marks, barb wire marks and holes.
Hides are separated:
The top layer is called the \'Top Grain\' or \'Top Split\', whereas the bottom layer is called the \'Bottom Split\'. Now the \'Top Grain\' is the strongest and most supple part of the hide and this is used for upholstery. The \'Bottom Split\' is used in other products such as shoes, etc.
Tanning the Skins:
The hides are put into a large rotating drum of chemical to preserve them . . . permanently. This is called \'Chrome Tanning\'. This also helps to increase the strength, durability and reduce shrinkage.
Sorting and Grading the Skins:
After tanning, the hides are then graded. This is a process of sorting out the hides according to their quality which is determined by the number and size of imperfections such as those mentioned in the sorting procedure.
Re-Tanning and dying the skins:
The leather is put into another large rotating drum of chemicals which include oils for lubricating and softening, and other chemicals for adding firmness, tear strength and fastness. Dye is also added to stain the leather to a colour that is related to the finished colour.
The leather is then dried:
The leather is absolutely saturated at this point and is then stretched out on large frames and force dried in a drying room
The leather used to emboss:
Leather with excessive scarring is then sanded smooth and embossed with an artificial grain.
Corrected Grain Leather:
Looks a bit like vinyl, chances are, it has gone through the embossing  process. This type of leather is \'CORRECTED GRAIN\' leather.
Full Grain Leather:
Has had nothing done to alter the natural surface and is softer and contains the natural markings of the hide.
The leather is softened:
in a large rotating drum, very much like a tumble clothes dryer.
How the skins get color:
The leather is put through an automated finishing machine, which sprays on the desired colour. Normally several coats are applied.
The leather is sealed:
Once the colour is applied, a clear sealer is sprayed on for added durability. The lustre of this coating can be adjusted to give a high gloss, satin, or dull finish. The sealer has waxes and modifiers added to give the leather its feel qualities.
Grade and quality:
The leather is graded according to quality, colour and weight

How skins are measured

The hides are measured at the Tannery. They are measured in square footage.
Length x Width. They use a tool that covers the entire area of the skin, around the edges and crevices, arounf each hole and opening.
Example of square footage:
18 sq. ft would be equal to 1 yard
36 sq. ft = 2 yards
 
How to remove wrinkles from Hides
Hang it for a while or lay it out before you work on it. 
Iron the leather with a very cool iron using a paper bag as an ironing cloth.
Do not use the steam from the iron on it. 
   

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